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Can
I buy spare INCRA parts directly from you? |
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A:
Absolutely! Please contact
us with your needs. |
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Where
can I download a manual for my INCRA product? |
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A:
You will find manuals under Product
Manuals.
All available owner's manuals are stored in PDF
format. To download your manual, simply click on
the appropriate product name below. You must have
the FREE Adobe
Acrobat Reader Sotware installed to view this
manual in your browser. If you are not able to view
the manual or you do not have Adobe Acrobat installed,
you may download
it here. Simply follow the instructions provided
by Adobe.
Older or under-powered computers may have trouble
printing the more detailed pages or even the entire
manual. In these cases, please contact us for a
free replacement manual. |
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What
are your business hours? |
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A:
We are open from 8:30 to 5:00 Central Time, Monday
through Friday, except holidays. Our Product Pages
and the rest of our online information are available
to help you 24/7. |
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How
did INCRA start? |
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A:
INCRA is the brand name legally registered as a
trademark by Taylor Design Group, Inc. After inventing
and refining his first two products, Chris Taylor
founded the company in January 1987 and immediately
introduced the Incra Positioning Jig and the INCRA
Gauge. Before he started inventing woodworking tools
full-time, Chris was an electrical engineer and
serious woodworker. INCRA has been a great help
to many woodworkers with continuous creative innovation
since 1986. |
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Can
I use any router table? |
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A:
Yes. An offset-style table is ideal, but conventional
center-mount router table can have a simple extension
added to allow reasonable fence travel for the LS
system. Tips for adding an extension
are in the LS Positioner owner’s manual
The
quality of the router table will affect your results.
For an Incra system to perform properly, the router
mounting plate must fit without play in the table
opening, and the reducing rings around the router
bit must be very level with the surrounding plate. |
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I’m
building an offset-style router table for an LS
system. What are the ideal dimensions? |
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A:
The outside dimensions aren't particularly important
but the distances from the router's center to the
table's edges are worth considering. Parallel to
the fence, the infeed edge of the table should be
between 12" and 16" (more than 16"
can make the table uncomfortable to use). Parallel
to the positioner's carriage, the edge of the table
should be 29" from the router's center for
LS17 Systems and 37" from the router's center
for LS25 Systems.
There
is quite a bit of latitude for shortening these
ideal dimensions, and the LS Positioner's base housing
also does not need to be mounted fully on the router
table; it can be mounted so that as much as 6"
of the base housing's length projects off the edge
of the router table. |
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What's
the size of the INCRA Router Lifts and MagnaLOCK
Router Plates? |
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A:
They are 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" (9.250"
x 11.750") in outside dimensions and 3/8"
thick. The openings in Incra router tables are about
0.020" larger in each dimension. There is no
industry standard opening, but this rough size is
the most commonly used and Incra router tables and
plates are designed to be compatible with Woodpeckers
products. |
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I
have a router table attached to my table saw. How
can I mount an LS Router System
so it can be easily removed? |
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A:
The oval top section of the positioner’s base
can be removed from the T-slotted sub base. This
oval section can then be attached to a piece of
good-quality 3/4” plywood and then mounted
in a variety of ways. A
wooden router table encourages using knobs through
the plywood threaded into T-nuts inserted into the
underside of the router table. For a cast iron table
saw top, an INCRA Miter Slider can be attached to
the bottom of the plywood platform, and then the
Miter Slider can lock the plywood platform and LS
positioner into the saw’s miter slot where
it can be used with the router table. |
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Why
choose the LS25 over the LS17? |
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A:
The LS17 will likely cover every routing operation
you’ll encounter, but the LS25 will rout to
the center of a larger panel. The LS25 provides
a 50% increase in capacity for only $30 more. The
LS25 could someday be set up as a replacement rip
fence on the TS rail system, while the LS17 doesn’t
have the travel necessary for an everyday rip fence. |
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What’s
the widest board I can dovetail? |
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A:
The theoretical limit is the fence travel of the
positioner, either 17” or 25”. The realistic
limit is about 18”, though there are many cases
where folks have gone well beyond that. Bigger material
is a bigger challenge. However, for the most common
jobs like dovetailing drawers and boxes, an INCRA
system is far faster than any jig because it allows
you to cut several boards simultaneously. |
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How
easy is the system to learn? |
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A:
For the general routing you’ll be doing most,
it takes maybe ten minutes to become familiar
with the system, and the accuracy and repeatability
will spoil you on the very first day.
For box joints and dovetails, give it an afternoon
and practice with poplar before you get into the
middle of an important project. The joinery instructions
are clear, and the video is a fantastic companion.
It’s not much different than learning to use
a conventional dovetail jig. |
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How
do the joinery templates work? |
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A:
Each template has one series of lines for each portion
of the joint. On a half blind dovetail, for example,
there are two sets of lines on the template - one
for each board in the corner. For one board in the
joint, you would lock the carriage make a cut as
each line marked “A” on the template
is aligned under the cursor.
To
make the mating cuts into the other board, you would
stop at each line labeled “B” on the template
and make a cut. The lines on the templates correspond
to the mechanical 1/32” increments of the positioner,
and those mechanics position the fence with an accuracy
5 to 10 times better than your eyesight looking
through the cursor onto the template. |
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Can
I add the Wonder Fence later? |
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A:
Yes, the Wonder Fence works directly with the joinery
fence on the LS Standard Systems, and it will work
with Incra Ultra systems that are equipped with
the current Pro-II Joinery Fence. |
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Do
you use zero-clearance inserts? |
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A:
The INCRA Router Systems achieve full zero-clearance
with a very economical, convenient, and complete
solution. Instead of using a plastic insert, the
systems include hardware and instructions for making
zero-clearance sub-fences from scrap wood you already
have.
The subfence is cut with the fence fully locked,
and automatically compensates for the pilot bearings
found on edge-forming router bits.
The
sub fences can be used with the halves offset
for edge jointing or moulding, allowing zero clearance
in a situation where an insert can’t be used.
It’s economical because there’s no need
to buy replacement inserts, and it’s fast
because there is no second or third cutting operation
necessary to accommodate router bits with pilot
bearings.
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Will
it fit my saw? |
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A:
Probably. If your saw is less than 28-1/2"
deep (measured along the miter slot) and has flat
surfaces at the front and rear that are square to
the top, you should be in good shape.
The adjustable hardware will use the existing holes
in the saw in 95% of installations. Extension wings
and side tables are not required, as the rails mount
only to the central part of the saw's top.
If your saw is more than 28-1/2" deep, TS-LS
systems are available with a longer fence and base
support panel to handle saws up to 35" deep.
Smaller saws such as bench-top and jobsite saws
may need drilling and will generally need support
legs under the rails.
The
TS Rail System is not compatible with Ryobi saws
or the Jet Super Saw when it's equipped with Jet's
sliding table accessory.See the TS Compatibility
Table for more information.
Note: INCRA TS Router Tables are designed to work
with saws 27"-28" deep. |
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How
easy is it to install? |
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A:
It's very straightforward, typically two hours of
turning wrenches. Everything is adjustable, and
the rails are self-leveling and self-aligning. Click
to view the TS-LS owner's manual. Combinations including
TS router tables and routing accessories include
a huge amount of INCRA equipment, so setting up
the entire saw/router system normally takes an afternoon. |
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TS-LS32
or TS-LS52? |
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A:
It mostly depends on whether 32" ripping capacity
is enough, or if you need 52". The TS-LS 32"
has more than enough capacity to build standard
size kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Shop space can
also be a deciding factor, and the TS-LS 52"
will be a tight fit in smaller shops. Before shoehorning
a high-capacity system into a small work space,
consider that it takes an open area of roughly 11ft
x 18ft to maneuver and rip or crosscut 4'x8' sheet
goods regardless of the style of saw or brand of
rip fence.
The
current width of the saw and its various extensions
isn't a factor when choosing between the
32"- and 52"-capacity systems, but the
long rails of the TS-LS 52" will be a closer
match for an existing wooden right-side extension
table if your current rip fence has 50"+
capacity.
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How
big is it? |
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A:
The rails on the TS-LS 32" are 72" long,
and the overall width is 102" when positioner's
carriage is extended for maximum rip. The right-hand
ends of the rails are typically set 45" from
the blade.
The
TS-LS 52" has 92" rails, and the overall
width is 122" when set for maximum rip. The
right-hand ends of the rails are typically set 65"
from the blade. |
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When
are support legs necessary? |
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A:
Legs are not necessary when installing the TS-LS
32" on floor-standing contractor's saws or
cabinet saws. Support legs are also not needed when
installing our left-side TS router table. Legs are
required when mounting a substantial extension or
a TS router table to the right of the saw on all
but the heaviest cabinet saws, and some support
is required whenever the 92" rails are installed
or the 72" rails positioned further to the
right than on a typical installation. |
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Does
it require side tables? |
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A:
No. The TS rail system attaches only to the central
part of the saw's top, and the rails will serve
as the anchor point for any other accessories such
as support legs, TS router tables, etc.
Because
the rip fence performs perfectly with wide open
spaces on either side of the saw, you have flexibility
in deciding how to lay out the system…you might
keep your saw's metal wings, replace a wing with
a router table, reuse an existing wooden extension
table, or build an extension table from scratch. |
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Is
it better to have the router table at the saw or
a separate router table? |
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A:
Because the table saw and router table are the two
most frequently used stations in most shops, there’s
no question that having a separate router table
is more convenient and efficient. The drawback is
the cost of separate Incra systems and slightly
more shop space. If your budget or shop space are
limited, installing a router table at the saw is
a reasonable means of getting the same accuracy
for both operations. |
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Is
the left router table or right router table better? |
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A:
It's partly personal preference and will partly
depend on the saw. The router tables generally replace
the saw's metal extension wing on the appropriate
side, and cabinet saws and hybrid-style saws will
often have a motor housing that would interfere
with the router's motor either on the left or the
right. Visit the TS System Planner and TS Compatibility
Table for details.
The
right-side table helps fill in that area of the
saw and doesn't require moving the base assembly
for routing, but it also limits routing capacity,
limits access around the router, and forces you
to lower the router bit to get back to sawing
operations. The right-side router table also requires
legs, which is a consideration if you move your
saw frequently.
The
left side table allows full capacity, much better
access around the router, and doesn't require
the use of legs. It does require sliding the TS
base assembly down the rails (there are stops
for repeatability), and there is less work space
in front of the fence – roughly the same
amount as on most center-mount stand-alone router
tables.
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Are
the tables compatible with earlier TS models? |
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A:
The current TS router tables and mounting hardware
are compatible as far back as the Ultra TS-III introduced
in 1999. The router table hardware is sold separately
and can dramatically simplifies the installation
of user-made tables on any TS system that uses the
gold aluminum rails. |
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What's
the size of the INCRA Router Lifts and MagnaLOCK
Router Plates? |
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A:
They are 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" (9.250"
x 11.750") in outside dimensions and 3/8"
thick. The openings in Incra router tables are about
0.020" larger in each dimension. There is no
industry standard opening, but this rough size is
the most commonly used and Incra router tables and
plates are designed to be compatible with Woodpeckers
products. |
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Is
there a difference between the routing accessories
in the TS Combos and the stand-alone
LS router systems? |
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A:
The
systems share the same broad range of routing applications,
and the routing accessories are for the TS Combos
are duplicated exactly with one exception: the Wonder
Fence extrusion has no provision for accepting the
telescoping stop extender bar that's standard on
the LS router table systems. |
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Are
there any limitations in routing with a TS joinery
systems compared to a stand-alone system? |
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A:
As far as the system's capabilities are concerned,
there are no limitations, and TS-based routing setups
are capable of the same operations as Incra router
table systems. Having the shop's primary router
table separate from the saw still be more convenient
and efficient, though, since with a TS-base system
one doesn't have access to the saw while routing
and vice versa. |
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Can
the TS routing accessories be adapted to earlier
TS models? |
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A:
Yes, though it's recommended that TS systems built
in 1999 and earlier upgrade the rip fence extrusion
to the current TS-3A fence. The newer fence has
a machined front face that allows better alignment
between the infeed and outfeed sections of the Wonder
Fence. |
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Can
they be recalibrated for square? |
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A:
Yes. Loosen the three vertical bolts at the fence
mounting bracket and the fence can then "float"
through a 1 degree range while the miter gauge is
locked is locked at 0 degrees. If a miter gauge
is dropped and parts get tweaked, the miter gauge
can often be recalibrated and work perfectly until
the affected parts are replaced. |
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Is
it possible to adjust the angle between the fence
and the table saw? |
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A:
Yes. It's not necessary to have the fence square
to the table top when cutting with the lumber flat
on the table, but this angle can be adjusted for
situations where the lumber must be held upright
against the fence. Paper or tape shims are added
between the fence mounting bracket and gauge body
in the appropriate locations and then trimmed so
they don't show. The instructions are in the owner's
manuals and it takes about ten minutes. |
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What
size miter slots to the INCRA Miter Gauges fit? |
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A:
All of our products fit miter slots 3/4" wide,
3/8" deep, and with or without a 15/16"
T-slot at the bottom. Our miter bars are slightly
undersize from a true 3/4" to fit the undersize
(.740") slots of Craftsman contractor's saws.
Sorry, we don't manufacture equipment for the 5/8"
slot sometimes found on smaller table saws. |
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What's
the difference between the Miter Express and Miter5000? |
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A:
They both have 24" panel capacity, full zero
clearance, and greater safety & control when
cutting small parts.
The Express is more compact, less expensive, and
is sold without a miter gauge or fence. The quick
release allows it to accept any brand of miter gauge
and allows the use of the miter on different shop
machinery.
The Miter5000 has larger panels to better support
plywood, the mechanics of the Miter3000 are built
in, and it has INCRA's longest extending fence (36-60").
When comparing the Miter5000 to the Miter Express
/ Miter1000SE Combo, the Express combo is more versatile
because of the quick-release for the miter gauge,
and the combo can be more easily upgraded later
with a longer fence, larger panels, etc. |
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What's
the difference between the 1000SE and 3000SE? |
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A:
The 1000SE has a more compact fence 18-31"),
has 41 positive stops at the most common angles,
and the vernier scale reads all the way to tenths
of a degree.
The 3000SE has a longer fence (27-49") and
miter bar. It also has 364 positive stops 1/2 degree
apart, but it lacks a vernier scale. |
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Do
you have anything to fit a Shopsmith? |
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A:
We have the Miter
2000 (SMITER/18) gauge available for Shopsmith,
and the Miter
Express (SMITEREXPRESS), Miter
5000 (SMITER5000) and Miter
V120 (SMITERV120) are also available for
those machines. |
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How
do you set the scale on the fence? |
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A:
Set the stop to slightly overhang the end of the
fence, set the scale to read "zero" at
the edge of the stop, and then slide the fence toward
the blade until the stop just kisses the blade.
Tighten the fence in this position. |
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What
are the benefits of using a sled vs. a miter gauge? |
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A:
Sleds offer roughly double the capacity of the best
miter gauges (even INCRA's!) and can cut common
cabinet parts, sleds offer better safety and control
for small parts with the use of hold downs and because
they "carry" the lumber through the blade,
and sleds offer a cleaner cut because of the zero-clearance
on both sides of the blade (especially important
cross cutting veneered plywood). |
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I
have an INCRA miter gauge already. Can I upgrade
the fence? |
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A:
Yes. Every miter fence fits every INCRA gauge body. |
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Can
I buy a Flip Shop Stop? |
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A:
Yes, BUT it will only work on fences that are designed
to accept it. The fences on the Miter1000T or Miter2000
MUST be replaced with a Flip Fence to accept the
flip stop. |
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Can
I buy a Flip Stop for my router fence? |
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A:
Sorry, the Flip Shop Stop is only compatible with
the miter gauge fences. |
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